For the team to scrum correctly you must work together and practice.
Binding, timing of the strike, the push, coordinating the wheel,
etc. You should at least equal the 30 scrums you have the in
game during practice.
In my two sessions a week schedule I always plan the unit
work on Thursday and look at the opposition for the weekend to
decide when to plan a specific scrum training. |
As a great developer of body strength I have lots of individual
scrumming work with the forwards, 1 vs 1, 1 vs 2, 2 vs 2, etc.
It helps the players get comfortable with binding, foot work,
training their body in a very dynamic way. (and they like the wrestling too!)
|
By Jeff Hollier
I spent years building the pack a "row" at a time,
and became very unhappy with it. The original problem that I
specifically needed to fix which led to my current paradigm was
that I was not getting any push out of the flankers. They were
just hanging on waiting to break.
I now start with individual
mechanics for everyone (that would be the one at a time). Then
I talk about the upper body requirements of the TH and the tunnel
responsibilities of the LH. And about angle of attack at the
engagement.
Now here is where I get
some strange looks from players who have never trained with me
before. I build the scrum as two driving pods. I usually cover
line-outs and lifting first so the analogy to the lifting pods
is very handy here. I put a prop on the sled with a lock and
flanker behind him/her. Discuss vectors of force and who the
lock does and does not push against. (I actually make the locks
tell me who their inside shoulder is pushing against - remember,
there is no hooker there - when they say "no one" I
tell them "good, let's keep it that way").
I put two of these pods
on the sled and we work on engagement and drive with just the
6 of them without letting the locks or props bind together. This
forces the flankers to equalize the drive or their prop gets
pushed out. (I also have a little speech about flanker being
the most glamorous position on the field and with that comes
much greater responsibility to push AND break quickly, not one
or the other.)
I add the 8 next and
let the locks bind together and work on the two locks as the
intersection of the pods, not the hooker. We work without a hooker
for awhile, finally adding him/her to the mix.
This stress on the two
pushing pods has really changed the focus of the players on the
responsibilities in the scrum. In this fashion, the hooker is
really an outsider and gets to focus on his/her individual body
positioning and responsibilities and his/her push when added
is extra, not assumed.
I really like this progression
through the training sequence and the analogy to the lifting
pods. It has certainly changed the contribution we get from our
flankers.
This method is ONLY appropriate
for sled work. In my opinion it is too dangerous to drop out
the hooker in "live" work, and if the props bind tight,
there is no room for the locks' feet and the whole thing would
be very unstable.
3 v. 3 option:
You can work with driving pods without a machine, though. Just
reverse one of the pods. So, in the pod you are working you have
a prop up front, with a flanker and lock behind him/her. In the
other pod, just there for resistance unless you have a 2nd row
and #8 you really want to work, you have two up front and one
behind. This is much more stable and the force is directed in-line.
Prop's head goes in the middle and everyone pushes. Not as good
as the sled work, but gets the point across. |
By Jeff Hollier,
Coach VRFC, VRU Men, VRU Women.
Key points:
- Tightening up flankers
angle of drive
- Setting your prop a
half step to the left
- Tightening prop's arm
bind to hooker
- Completely prepare for
engagement before dipping shoulders and ref's call
- Shooting head to opposition
prop's sternum before s/he shoots for yours
- Angling prop's drive
slightly outward to hold opposition prop out
Some really good discussion
going on about preventing boring from the opposition LH here.
In particular, the suggestion about the prop/lock/flank power
triad, and angles of push.
While normally, I have
a hard time getting my flanker to push hard enough, when the
opposition prop is boring, too much push from the typical flanking
angle can actually accentuate the boring action and be destructive
to your own pack.
In this case, I would
instruct my flanker to move his/her hips closer to the lock and
drive straighter, rather than in. When the opposition prop is
boring, it's not usually the case that your props hips are swinging
wide, they are going straight but his/her shoulders are being
driven in. Get your flankers force more in line with a straight
drive to help your prop counter the inward pressure by increasing
the outward force of the lock. This all fails if your prop's
hips begin to swivel outward, however and the flanker has to
go back to holding them in. (think of vectors of force: lock
and flank angular force countering each other resulting in a
straight ahead drive, now think of that force with the props
spine in line vs. canted inward and anchored at his/her shoulders.)
The other important point
raised in this discussion is the initial hit by the pack. Specifically,
by the prop in trouble. When an opposition prop bores, the most
important period of time for action is at the initial contact.
In order to bore, the opposition prop has to take away your props
center line, i.e. get his/her head under your props sternum,
in order to drive the head in. At contact, your prop should shoot
for the LH's sternum rather than the cozy niche under the armpit.
This will help hold the opposition prop out. If your prop can
take away the opposition prop's sternum, s/he will have swing
his/her hips way outside to drive inward. This proper placement
of your prop's head combined with the lock/flank drive directed
slightly outward will do more to stop boring than inament.
To round out the whole
picture you have to go back to the early engagement. The other
pack is engaging early specifically to get the advantage of the
center line. If your prop isn't ready for it, s/he can't prevent
it. Have your front row stay up until everything is ready (all
8 in position and mentally prepared for engagement). Teach them
that once they drop their shoulders, they should expect the opposition
to engage. Before the game, ask the ref if his/her call of
"ENGAGE" is a command to engage or simply letting them
begin their cadence. If it is a command, teach them to engage
on that command, if it is a signal to begin their cadence, teach
them to begin it before the call and hold it so that they treat
the ref's call as a command.
Most teams have a cadence similar to "Squeeze, knees, ENGAGE!"
Go through the "Squeeze, knees" bit before the ref's
call and hold for "ENGAGE", or before dipping shoulders
(this latter is harder).
Finally, have your prop
take a half step to the left in preparation for shooting outward.
Hips stay anchored to his/her hooker but the shoulders and head
move outward to his/her opposition's sternum.
All of these "tips"
have to happen together or they don't work. The shot for the
sternum relies on initial position and engaging at or before
the opposition's engagement. Support for sustaining the angle
of drive slightly outward relies on hip position, tight arm bind
to the hooker and tighter angle of drive by the flanker. |